He talks about the fact that we cannot always explain what we want. Or as he says, "The mind does not always know what the tongue wants." He addresses the brake in the 60s/70s between the idea of a platonic (perfect) way of making a dish/product to a horizontal segmentation where taste has become democratized/segmented. So instead of thinking in terms of universals such as having one style or taste for everyone, now human variability and diversity has become the focus.
Malcolm Gladwell's blog is at http://gladwell.typepad.com/ and his website you can find at http://www.gladwell.com/
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